Living on road time

On route 25, it is 640 kilometres from Cartagena to the city of Medellin, but it is not an easy drive. In that distance the altitude rises from 100 feet in Cartagena to over 8500 feet before it drops down to Medellin. The road was decently paved with only random holes or bumps to avoid. Having had the fuel pump replaced the van seemed re energized. It was not long though before we experienced car troubles again. Continue reading “Cartagena to Medellin; driving through Columbia”

The 30,000 km Panamerican highway that we have been following stops dead at Yaviza, Panama. It begins again at Turbo, Columbia, leaving a roadless gap for 100 kilometres. Known as the Darién Gap, this land is home to three indigenous tribes, the Kuna, the Emberà, and the Wounaan. It also hides drug smugglers, illegal migrants on their way north, and enough paramilitary rebels to leave you shaking in your boots. There have been plans to continue the road but all efforts have failed.  A few travellers do manage to get through using jungle trails, wooden river lanchas, and even a short hop on an 8 seater plane. Continue reading “Panama City, El Papa, and the Darién”

We had anticipated an organized border crossing into Panama for two reasons. It borders Costa Rica, and it has had a lot of American influence. But our optimism was misplaced. We stamped out of Costa Rica, bought car insurance for Panama, and went through Migración easily enough. The final stop was the Aduana for the car importation. Continue reading “Panama and Los Dos Amigos”

As soon as we entered Costa Rica we noticed a huge difference from travelling in Nicaragua. We passed lush forest on clean wide highways, with no cows or horse carts on the roadway. Affluence was apparent in the numerous large billboard advertisements for hotels, tours, restaurants or businesses. In the first hour we saw a 3-foot iguana cross the road in front of us, and passed signs for 4 of the country’s 27 national parks. Continue reading “Costa Rica – Pura Vida”

The thermometer registered 95 degrees as we entered Nicaragua, and that heat followed us right through the country.  Short fat trees squatted over very dry pastureland. We could see mountain ridges in the distance but here the land was flat, and the highway wide with smooth pavement and good signage. Bob felt relief from the constant curves and hills of Honduras and Guatemala. Continue reading “Heating up in Nicaragua”

We fully intended on entering Nicaragua at Los Manos, but our entry was denied. The trouble began when we tried to cancel our Honduran vehicle permit. The woman at the Aduana refused to cancel it. She insisted I walk into Nicaragua, and return with a permit before she would process our vehicle paperwork. This is not normal procedure. But then, nothing here is ever normal. Continue reading “Detour in Honduras”

We left Antigua in good time, picking a route that skirted nearby Guatemala City by a wide margin, first on the Panamerican highway, then north on 3 and 4.  Our drive took about four hours, the first half through lush mountains, and later a wide flat valley. We passed large affluent brick or cement homes painted in golden yellow or terra cota, with flowering trees of purple, yellow or white, hanging over the walls. Continue reading “Guatemala to Honduras”

After all the pre border anxiety, we were the only tourists at La Mesilla, and no lineups. Using a step by step description from the internet, it was pretty straight forward. But still stressful. First the Mexican side where at one office we cancelled our van permit and at another office we had our passports stamped. Then we drove through the entry into Guatemala where we were stopped to have the van fumigated for 39Q. Then to an office to filled out a form for entry. Then park and stand at Ventana 1 where a guy made out a new permit for our van. Then move to Ventana 2, I don’t know why, and the same guy handed us an invoice.  Next to the bank to pay 160Q and back to Ventana 2 with the receipt. An hour later, and with a sigh of relief, we were all legal for Guatemala. Continue reading “Guatemala”

The city of Oaxaca, capital of the state of Oaxaca, is located in the foothills of the Sierra Madre mountains. Driving to the city on Highway 190, (known as the Panamerican Highway), we were treated to a good wide road and spectacular views of deep gorges, thin slivers of river way below, and lush  green forested hills extending back forever until they blended with layers of blue mountain ranges.  Continue reading “Last week in Mexico”