Rio de Janiero

Rio de Janeiro has the nickname Cidade maravilhosa which translates to Marvellous city. But in contrast, this sprawling metropolis also has a reputation for being dangerous.  As our airplane skimmed over the water for landing, the city’s beauty was immediately apparent. Lush green forests and steep mountainous cliffs rising above the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean. Danger on the other hand is invisible.

On our first day in Rio we went to see Christ the Redeemer. Having been deemed one of the New Seven Wonders of the World, this imposing 30 meter high statue towers above a forested mountain peak. To get there we walked to the metro station, took a taxi to Tijuca Forest Park, transferred to a van that wound higher up the narrow jungle roads, and dropped us at the top of Corcovado Mountain. Then stairs, an elevator, and more stairs. Finally we found ourselves alone with Jesus … and a thousand other Brazilians. The statue was impressive, and the views overlooking the city and ocean were spectacular.

Two of the many beaches in Rio are world renowned – Ipanema and Copacabana. To get to Ipanema, we took a city bus.  As we approached the beach the colourful sun umbrellas formed a thick canopy as far as we could see. How fun is a crowded beach?

It turned out to be a lot of fun.

We spread our towels out near the water, not wanting to be in the thick of the crowd. Everyone knows that there is a reason people aren’t sitting there. We were soon washed over by an unexpectedly large wave leaving us soggy and covered in sand. How to look like a tourist 101. Slightly embarrassed, we paid for umbrellas and chairs and moved to the middle of the crowd. It was lively but not loud. Crowded but relaxing. We were entertained by the vendors selling corn, shrimp on a stick, fruit beverages, and beer. We people-watched the families with kids, the teenager groups and the wave jumpers, all just enjoying the day. The waves were large and the water cold. The sand is the most beautiful we have ever seen, a light brown soft sugar that just begs to have your toes dig in.

After the beach, we attempted a bus ride home. First, the Bus App had us walking in circles to find the right bus. Then a few minutes into our ride, an altercation erupted with the entire front of the bus yelling at the driver and the driver yelling back. This went on for 5 or 10 minutes. Suddenly the driver stopped the bus, turned off the engine and exited the front door. The passengers clapped gleefully. What the heck?

We got off and took a cab.

We have been sufficiently warned regarding safety in Rio. The most common crime against tourists is pick pocketing or grabbing a carelessly held cell phone. We take that threat seriously. But so far people have been helpful and kind. Brazilians are obviously enjoying life at a relaxed pace.

Another famous spot in Rio is the Escadaria Selarón. This cement staircase was tiled by Chilean artist Jorge Selaron, using the Brazilian colors of yellow, blue and green and including tiles from 60 countries around the world. We decided to go on a Monday in order to avoid the weekend crowds. Unfortunately, it turned out to be a public holiday. Throngs of people crowded the steps. And it was blistering hot with no shade. But the vibrant colors and patterns of tile were amazing. Very impressive.

Other day trips in Rio included riding an ancient covered tram up the mountain to an area called Santa Teresa. Again we had amazing views of city, a nice meal in an outdoor courtyard, and enjoyed live music by a local singer.

We had a scorching afternoon at the Botanical gardens with its 6000 plus species of plants and a Sunday afternoon at the Gloria Street market.

Some cab drivers and waiters know a bit of English but they may not. Knowing Spanish helps us read signs and muddle through menus in Portuguese, as the spelling is similar. But for us, speaking seems impossible. Letters have completely different sounds and there are a lot of d,g,j’s smushed together in an unfamiliar way. In 6 days we have only mastered simple greetings Ola (hello) and Tudo bem (all good?) and our favourite Obrigada which works as a thank you.

We had delicious pasta at an Italian restaurant named Mamma Rosa. Leona and I ordered mojitos which looked fine but tasted extremely bitter. We attempted to tell our attentive waiter that the drinks  needed more sugar. He listened and pondered. Then he went away and came back with a 26 of Bacardi  and poured at least 2 more ounces of rum into each glass. Haha. Some communication works, some doesn’t.

A famous drink in Brazil is the Caipirinha, a refreshment made of lime, brown sugar, ice and Cachaça. You can get this drink everywhere but the best we had was from the old guy with a cart in front of the metro station. He topped it with honey. It was cold and delicious. And fairly potent. Don’t have two.

Brazilians like their meat and so one evening we went to a churrascaria, an all you can eat meat restaurant. Not to worry. They offered a good variety of salads too. Waiters bring large slabs of meat to the table and carve off individual portions. We ate way too much steak. It was great.

Our accommodation is in the district of Flamengo. Here we feel comfortable walking, stopping for groceries or relaxing at a local street side restaurant. We do see people sleeping on the streets, others picking through garbage for drink cans, lugging sacks of collected recyclables or pushing wooden carts laden with sacks of something. The poorer people of Rio live in shanty towns that sprawl up mountain sides. Called favelas, these places are dangerous for tourists and we need to be vigilant about choosing our destinations correctly when using Uber or taxi. We have made a few mistakes so far, which landed us at the wrong location, fortunately without mishap.

Next stop Manaus and the Amazon River cruise.